"If you have built castles in the air, your work need not be lost; and that is where they should be. Now put the foundations under them."  -Henry David Thoreau

Lajitas, Tx.

 Findings on my trip to the ladies room in the desert. Coyote?

Camp Camel Hump, Terlingua Ranch, Tx.

Duke Shapes Hat

For those in need of instruction on shaping a hat. This is one way to do it. 

Terlingua Chili Cookoff, 2011.

 

West Texas - Terlingua Chili Cookoff 2011

Folks refer to the chili cook off as the redneck Mardi Gras. I can't think of a more fitting description. Thousands of people flock to the desert with campers, tents, 4 wheelers, tripped out trucks, Harley's, beer, barbecue and beads. They take their chili and boobs seriously.  Women raise their shirts to the call "show me your tits" for beads and their own gratification. The most popular competition outside of chili is the tit contest set to loud music in a natural amphitheater of roaring fans. This years winner was in her 70's. To certain feminists, this might sound degrading, but there was something liberating in exposing what women often repress. Sierra sums it up on her shirt.

Sierra

Tate giving me a ride on his Hardly Davidson

Duke & Wes

Titty Contest

West Texas - Terlingua Ranch

Terlingua Ranch seems like one of the last last frontiers. 195,000 acres of land slowly being developed and sectioned off into plots that range from $200-$600 per acre, depending on proximity of power lines and water. Ranch folk haul in water in tanks and collect rain. If mesquite trees are growing, likely a well can be dug. Most folks use solar and wind forces to power the electricity with generators as a back up.

Duke's land is called Camp Camel Hump after the red rock outcrop silhouetted on the horizon. Down the dirt road his friends King George, Anita and daughter Kaylee Wren perch below Red Bluff. Wes & Gina and Anna & Jim are a stone's throw away by desert standards.

Duke rollin' into Camp Camel Hump

Mike Dwyer, friend and singer songwriter at Camp Camel Hump

King George, Kaylee Wren at Red Bluff

King George at Red Bluff

King George at Red Bluff

Kaylee Wren, Desert Angel

West Texas - Lajitas

Shadow at Shorty's Bar (Tate's adobe)

King George and Anita split their time between Terlingua Ranch and an adobe at Lajitas, a high end resort which employs many including Anita who runs the general store and seems to be the backbone of the show. King George is, well, the King. And he'll tell you so. He's considered West Texas royalty by many. He runs hard, plays hard and howls it out in song. He's of a dying breed that seem to gravitate to this land. Most are story tellers, philosophers, poets, cowboys, artists - and all characters. Their neighbor Tate is counted among them, a writer, master stone worker, artist, gentle in ways, but don't piss him off.

Tate, King George & Kaylee, Anita

Tate

King George's Love Song

West Texas - Helping Hands

Everyone gives their brother or sister a hand out here in the desert. Whatever is needed, it will be provided for one way or another. The exchange often excludes cash, rather using cigarettes, Lone Star beer, a song or what ever it is that you have and the other needs. They naturally do what many cooperatives and sustainable communities strive to create. In this land, sharing and helping out a brother man or sister gal is a way of life.

Duke & King George

West Texas - Polvo & Dama De Azul

Duke's ranch "Polvo" includes about 60 acres of land adjoining the Big Bend Ranch State Park. The property has several houses with the Rio Grande as the backyard, a stones throw from Mexico. El Polvo has a rich history - it's an old outpost from the days of Pancho Villa, including the hidden remnants of a mission from the 1600's and home of the legend of La Dama de Azul.

La Dama de Azul (Lady in Blue) is known for evangelizing the Jumano tribes in the 1600's by supernaturally appearing to them. In the visions, she instructed the tribesmen to locate priests in New Mexico to help build a missions throughout the region. She orchestrated the community without ever leaving Spain. They say it's the first ever bi-location on record, and she was also known to levitate during prayer. Her body remains uncorrupted even to this day.

Duke's slowly transforming this spot into a destination for culture, camping, desert exploration and rambling circles of song. Perhaps even a visit from the Lady herself. He says dreams are super potent at Polvo. I have been so wiped out since arriving, I haven't remembered any.

West Texas - Marfa

I have only spent a couple days in Marfa, a mix of cowboy culture and high art. My dad's friend Barry George offered his loft for me to bunk up. The space acts primarily as his studio of metal art with the ostrich sculpture standing ground. With hot water and a solid roof over my head, I used the days in Marfa to regenerate. One night out at Lost Horse Saloon brought the bar's owner Ty into the mix, a cowboy, actor (True Grit and other westerns), and a stand up gentleman. Hello ladies!

Sculpture at Barry's Studio

Ty

West Texas - Chinati Hot Springs & Circle Dug Ranch

Several of us bathed at the Chinati Hot Springs on our way to Circle Dug Ranch. Charlie has a cabin a few hundred yards from the hot springs ($25 a night per person). Totally secluded, Circle Dug Ranch takes about an hour of 4 wheeling tough terrain to arrive. The landscape is otherworldly and majestic with caves filled with petroglyphs and tiny Elf Owls. We rested in the old rustic yet posh stone house, ate steaks and garlic veggies, and prepared ourselves for one of the raunchiest parties in West Texas - the Chili Cook Off.

4 Wheelin at Circle Dug Ranch

West Texas - Dude of the Dead, Halloween 2011

Charlie Angell (from Angell Expeditions) and Harry Miller from Driftwood launched the Dude of the Dead Music Festival in Presidio.  Magic happened. The desert came alive with the music of the Doodlin' Hogwallop's, Jason Blum, David Garza, Mexican's at Night, Suzanna Choffel and Amy Cook. Listen to the video below of Austin based Topaz & the Mudphonics.

Suzanna Choffel

West Texas

Well, what started as a five day stint in West Texas has deepened into a full moon cycle of cosmic dust twisters. Picking me up in one realm and dropping me off in another. David Shane Duke, my friend and liason to these parts says "you can make plans, but plans will change and usually for the better. We make it up as we go." After 2 flight cancellations and many unexpected twists, I'm nearly believing him.